“Wine is a cultural product”

What made you want to work in the wine industry?

There wasn’t a particular aha moment. I studied music at university. My parents weren’t really wine drinkers; it’s an interest I developed on my own. I enjoyed learning and studying. So I started by memorizing the names of the Bordeaux appellations, and then I wanted to taste the wines. There is a parallel between music and wine: in both cases, it is about putting words to a sensation. We analyze the structure of a wine in the same way we would the structure of a symphony: the mid-palate, the finish, the tannins. The different elements must find harmony.

What is your role as a Master of Wine today?

I am still quite new to the role; it has been barely more than a year.  But it opens many doors. It is an excellent way to engage and inspire. I am very free in how I talk about wine, and I like to share this with new generations. The fact that I am still relatively young might be what allows me to foster more direct ties with my generation.

What makes for a grand vin?

I am often asked this question, and the answer is not a simple one. From the winegrower’s perspective, it is a wine produced in small quantities that receives a great deal of attention and care. But you can also consider it from the consumer’s point of view. What makes a wine a grand vin? Is it a question of price? Reputation? History? Or all of the above? In reality, it is a combination of the winegrower’s intention, the consumer’s awareness, quality, history and vision. So it is difficult to come up with a single definition.

Is there a region that you find to be particularly dynamic when it comes to grands vins?

Beyond regions like Bordeaux and Burgundy where grand vin is a tradition, the emergence of new regions has proved striking over recent years. South Africa, for instance, has been receiving more and more attention for the quality of its wines, particularly its outstanding Syrahs. South African viticulture saw a turning point a decade ago, with many new developments and producers. And the quality of its wines has continued to progress. South Africa is undoubtedly becoming an important region.

How would you describe the current market for grands vins in the U.K.?

The market for grands vins in the U.K. has evolved according to two different dynamics. On one hand, there has been increased diversification, with more regions producing very fine wines in a variety of styles with a more precise approach to winemaking. On the other hand, there is the global economic context, which weighs on consumers and has led to lower prices on the secondary market. But this also creates new opportunities, for grands vins can now be found at much more accessible prices.

Do you think the way we communicate about wine is changing?

Absolutely. It used to be that a single critic could make or break a wine. Today there are many voices, and that includes those of fervent amateurs. And this process of democratization has only been reinforced by digital technology, which makes sharing stories and inviting consumers into the heart of the vineyard that much more possible.

Do you have a particular memory of Cos d’Estournel?

Cos d’Estournel is an estate with a singular, strong identity. When you pass by its vines and you see the chateau, it is instantly recognizable. It is very different from the other estates of the Médoc.

Cos d’Estournel enjoys historic ties with India. Do you think this resonates with British consumers?

Indeed, its history is very unique. Consumers want to understand what each wine is all about, and Cos d’Estournel has a singular tale to tell. I believe wine is a cultural product, for it speaks of a time, a place, a savoir-faire. And the history of Cos, with its ties around the globe, is something that can win consumers over.

Is there a vintage that you particularly enjoy?

A new era began for Cos with the construction of its gravity-flow cellar in 2008. The 2008, 2012 and 2014 vintages are magnificent today. But the vintage that really impresses me is the 2010. It is remarkably balanced and already accessible while promising long cellaring. I also really enjoy the white wines of Cos d’Estournel: they are complex, intense, vibrant and zesty, truly an illustration of the potential of Bordeaux’s fine white wines.

To conclude, what three words would you use to describe Cos d’Estournel?

Power, elegance and precision. This is how I would describe Cos d’Estournel.